It was, for many long months, one of the darkest corners of one of the worst battles of the war. Besieged and embattled, the Old Quarter lay just beyond a desolate no-man's land around Homs's iconic new Clock Tower. The damaged edifice no longer keeps time, but it marks a defining time, still standing tall in the midst of rubble and ruin. Only the trill of birds and rattle of gunfire once pierced this deadness. Now this gateway is a cacophony of car horns and bicycle bells, revving of motorcycles and clatter of battered trucks streaming in and out of a shattered Old City now open to the eyes of the world. And inside the ravaged quarter, the soundtrack is also decidedly different….
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