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Bali highs in the terraced valleys of Ubud


Bali’s vivid green hills offer a sensory overload of culture, temples and rainforest – not to mention sublime restaurants and hotels.

Just outside Ubud, in the uplands of Bali, a new tented camp has opened. You dip down into a valley to find a world of cistern-shaped pools, spas with trees growing through them and tents that unzip to reveal copper baths and batik-covered walls. For no discernible reason, one of the restaurants is designed to look like a laundry. Staying at the Capella Ubud tented camp comes at eye-watering cost – but you can visit for the 10-course tasting menu at its Api Jiwa restaurant (£65 a head) and be surrounded by washing machines and artful displays of irons and washboards.

In 2006, the island found itself on the culture radar again after Eat Pray Love was published, and Ubud was inundated by Elizabeth Gilbert acolytes in search of enlightenment and hot Brazilian gemstone dealers.

Now Ubud has digital nomads, and high-concept restaurants are a thing. At Room 4 Dessert, chef Will Goldfarb, fresh from an airing on Netflix’s Chef’s Table, just does puddings, presenting them around a bar designed to look like a 19th-century bordello. A dessert tasting menu, which can be paired with flights of cocktails, starts at £43 for two people.

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